One never knows what an adventure will include.  Perhaps that is why we go looking for them.  Often, however, they find us before we are prepared to fully process them.  I find that my imagination and expectations are often too narrow for the fabulous adventures of daily life.  The Jesus Trail provides a framework for adventures, especially cultural, spiritual and physical ones, but the route varies from person to person, from day to day, from season to season.  I have found that the trail becomes an adventure in daily living; the trail becomes not so much an extraordinary out-of-life adventure, but a way to experience my real life by walking through the unexpected with curiosity and expectation.  All along the way I am being handed lenses with which to view my world differently.  However many times I walk the trail, the lenses reveal something unique each time.  Take Cana as an example.

Cana is the first night’s stop on the Jesus Trail.  A delightful guesthouse stands right on the path.  Only a few hops up the courtyard steps and one finds a house full of beds and delicious food.  From the balcony guests look right over onto the roof of the Catholic Wedding Church.  Some Christians believe the modern day town of Cana may be the site for Jesus’ first miracle, water to wine.  The Catholic Church and the nearby Orthodox Church each celebrate this miracle.  On a recent visit to Cana I followed a small group interested in seeing these sights.

As we walked across the cobbled courtyard, we followed tour groups from various countries, all excited to get their pictures taken where a miracle took place.  Following them into the church and down some stairs, we entered a room carved in the rock and housing a large but simple stone urn.  Money, prayers, and photos floated over the walls of the glass case and lodged in the stones of the cellar walls.  For many the thought of miracles brought mystery, renewed faith, and excitement.  Ascending once more into the church above, my husband and I were greeted by a lady speaking Italian.  We do not understand Italian, but gradually we realized she was fervently inviting us to come renew our wedding vows with about ten other couples gathered before the priest.  We declined, but watched with interest as the couples shared space with one of the most famous weddings in biblical history.

Our cultural experience was just beginning, however.  We stepped outside as the chimes rang along with the singing of “Ave Maria” by excited worshipers.  Rounding the corner of the church we found another group interested in marriage.  Not only were Catholics renewing their vows, but a group of Protestants were being challenged by their own marriage seminar in the courtyard.  Couples laughed and gazed into each other’s eyes while sharing a rose.  We debated whether or not to stay for the reception to follow (baklava, wine, and roses) but felt that we were outsiders at this wedding bash.  No water into wine that we know of, but our time at the Wedding Church provided us with new lenses with which to view cultures, faith, and the ever-continuing trail.

Ilaniya to Moshav Arbel in First-Century Costume

Crossing the Jesus Trail at Golani Junction

Day two of the hike began with a light rain before dawn but as the sun rose we knew it was going to be a beautiful day.  We ate boiled eggs, bread and cheese, and dried dates for breakfast, then hit the trail.  In a few minutes we came to a major highway junction where we encountered many inquisitive looks and photos out car windows.  A busload of children waved to us as they passed.  We waved back.

Shortly after crossing the busy Golani Junction, we passed by ruins of an ancient Roman road.  The road had been walked on by so many feet.  Thousands of years of rain and sun had smoothed the stones.  Was this what Jesus was talking about when he told his followers to carry something two miles if someone asks you to carry it one?  Did he envision a Roman soldier demanding help on this prominent highway stretching from the Mediterranean Sea to Damascus?

Walking the Roman Road on the Jesus Trail

As the simple trail wound away from impressive highways, we wandered through heaps of flowers, muddy tracks through olive orchards and bright green farm fields.  The way sloped up to the high point known as the Horns of Hattin.  From the green and sunny heights we could look out on hills, valleys and farm land for miles around.  The Sea of Galilee glimmered through the Arbel cliffs in the distance and we could even make out snow on Mount Hermon to the north.  As we rested there, we enjoyed simple snacks of boiled eggs, dried apricots and almonds.

Hiking around the rim of the Horns of Hattin on the Jesus Trail (Arbel Cliffs and Sea of Galilee in the background)

Down we climbed through rocks and flowered pastures to the base of the Horns.  Sitting at the foot of the hills is a Druze holy site, Nebi Shu’eib.  We washed our muddy feet in the natural spring there and caught curious glances from the Druze woman making a barbecue.

Washing muddy feet at the spring at Nebi Shu'eib

On we went into a perfect late spring afternoon.  Down through the ruins of the Arab town of Hittin, past fields and more olive orchards in the rocky valley and into my favorite section of the trail.  A long valley winds through steep, rocky mountains inhabited only by wildlife and cattle.  A sweet breeze blew along the valley as we wound on dirt paths between mother cows and their new calves, a wandering creek, spring flowers and late sunshine.

Nearly at the end of the valley, our path took us up a steep,  black path, past an ancient synagogue ruins and into the town of Moshav Arbel where we found our second campsite.  All six members of the Jesus Trail team worked at building a fire, and we heated up lentil stew to accompany the delicious St. Peter’s fish Dave and Anna brought and cooked over hot coals.  Sweet local wine and goat cheese, bread and cucumbers satisfied us after a long day in the fresh air.  We slept again in our tent and without a shower.

Supper also included fire-grilled onions which I mistakenly ate. Having decided not to brush my teeth during the pilgrimage because of the lack of toothpaste and toothbrush technology in the 1st Century, this would have the effect of utterly destroying my breath for this night and the following day. Oops. (Philip)

Photo highlights for Day 2

Stopping for a photo at the McDonalds at Golani Junction, the first in Israel

Spring flowers in full bloom near Kibbutz Lavi

Agricultural fields near Kibbutz Lavi

Philip approaching the Horns of Hattin

Spring rain brings spring mud, stop at Nebi Shu'eb to rinse off in the spring

Philip & Julian enjoying the view on the Horns of Hattin

Descending the Horns of Hattin to Nebi Shu'eib

Taylor eats a non-first-century lunch of peanut butter & jelly pita sandwich at Nebi Shu'eib

Almond blossoms near the Horns of Hattin

Sitting on a dusty rug in a dimly lit stone room, my knees bumped a little girl on one side and her mother on the other. Friends of ours from Nazareth, they had come to experience an evening as our guests. The spread we offered was not what most people consider elaborate, but all who gathered to eat the simple bread and lentils were delighted to be sharing the meal with one another. We were gathered to begin a journey.

Weeks ago we dreamed of walking the Jesus Trail in first-century style costumes, following the paths of Jesus. Finally, the moment had arrived. We stepped into our handcrafted clothes and began preparations for supper in a reconstructed Roman period house at Nazareth Village. Local lentils bought at the old dry goods store in town had to be cleaned for straw and rocks. A fire had to be started and kept up. As Betsy sat hand-sifting the lentils into a large pot, Philip struggled to keep a fire going. After many tries, he succeeded with small bits of wood from the woodworker’s shop and a small, terracotta oil lamp. At last, the large pot of lentils steamed over a bed of smoking coals.

While the stew simmered, Philip was busy starting another fire in order to bake bread. Our guests, six in all, arrived to billows of smoke, rain clouds, and tiny oil lamps against a dark night. Although the rain did begin falling in light sheets, the eight of us retreated to an almost cozy stone room for supper. Surrounded by the light of faithful lamps, we shared a large common pot, scooping up the steaming stew with fresh, chewy bread. One of our guests noticed the simple white cheese and cucumbers beside the bread and reminded us that many Arabs love this delightful combination. In the style of the Romans, we completed our meal with some watered down sweet wine.

As the meal drew to a close and the lamps flickered on, we sat wondering what people in the first-century would have done after dark. What forms of entertainment would they share? Our conversation led to its own form of entertainment. We watched each other’s faces across the glowing room. Our environment, which had seemed so primitive in the daylight, became soft and shared.

Thinking forward to the next three days, we do not know who we will meet, but we feel excited about the questions that will be asked. We do not know what weather we will walk in, but we know we will have friends to share a fire with at the end of the day. We do not know what we will learn, but we know that walking the Jesus Trail in a style reminiscent of Jesus’ day can only be an adventure.